Big Scrappy Pillow

Big Scrappy Pillow
20” x 20”

Use all your leftover pieces from a quilt to make a great matching accent pillow for a bed or couch.  This is also a great way to use packs of 2 ½” squares (mini charms from Moda).  I used Tulip Tango by Robin Pickens mini charm for this pillow.

Supplies

(76) 2 ½” squares
(4) 2 ½” x 12 ½” rectangles - Border
(2) 14” x 20 ½” rectangles – Backing
Thread to match the backing fabric.
20” x 20” pillow form

Sewing

Step 1:
Lay (36) squares out following the layout.

Step 2:
Sew the center squares together into rows.  Press seams following the arrows in the layout diagrams below.
Then sew the rows together.  Press to one side.

Step 3:
Sew a 2 ½” x 12 ½” border piece to each side of the pillow center.  

Press toward the border strip.  

Sew a 2 ½" square to each end of the remaining 2 ½" x 12 ½" border strips.  

Sew to the top and bottom of the pillow.  Press toward the border.

Step 4:

Sew two sets of (8) squares together for side borders and press to one side.  Add the borders to the sides of the pillow center from the diagram above.  Press toward this border.

Step 5:

Sew two sets of (10) squares together for the top and bottom borders, and press to one side.  Then add the border to the top and bottom of the pillow center.  Press toward this border.

 

Preparing Backing:
I love using the Hot Ruler from Clover (Purchase HERE).  You can press on this Hot Ruler, so making the hem on the backing pieces of the pillow sooo easy!  This ruler is 2 1/2" wide x 10" long.

Step 1:
Place your backing wrong side up on your ironing board.  Then place the Hot Ruler, ruler side up, along the 20 ½" side.

Step 2:
On one 20 ½" side of the backing, fold the raw edge of the fabric up to the 1/2" line and press.  Move the ruler to finish the whole backing piece.  Repeat for the second backing piece.

Step 3:
Open the pressed 1/2" hemline.

Step 4:

Fold the raw edge to the press line and fold it up; this will enclose the raw edge of the backing on one side.  Repeat for the second backing piece.

Step 5:

Now with matching thread, top stitch about 1/8" from the folded edge.  Repeat for the second backing piece. 

Step 6:

Now, lay the pillow front on your table right side up, and place one backing piece wrong side up on top of the left side of the pillow front.  Make sure to match raw edges, placing the hem in the middle of the pillow front.  Pin in place.
 
Next, using the second backing piece, place it on the right side of the pillow front, wrong side up.  Make sure to match raw edges, placing the hem in the middle of the pillow front.  Pin in place. *Note: the backing pieces will overlap.

 

Step 7:

Once your backing is pinned in place, from the corner, measure in 3/4" and place a dot, then measure out 5" from the dot in both directions and mark a dot that is 1/4" from the raw edge.  Now mark a slightly curved line from dot to dot, do this in both directions. This line will not be straight (This will help when turning the pillow right side out, there will be no sharp points on the corners.)

Repeat for all 4 corners.

Step 8:

Stitch all the way around the pillow with a 1/4" seam.  When you reach the lines that are drawn on the backing, stitch on the lines, backstitching at the beginning and end to reinforce the seam at that point.

Step 9:

Now, to reduce the bulk in the corners of the pillow, follow the picture to trim the corners.  A combination of both trimming and grading the corners is needed to reduce bulk and make the corners sharp and crisp when turned right side out and pressed.  Make sure not to trim too close to the corner stitching. If you trim too close when turning, you run the risk of pushing a hole in the corners.
 
Trim all 4 corners.

Step 10:

Turn the pillow right side out, poking corners out.  I use the OESD Expert Point & Press Tool. There are two different sizes of round ends on this tool to use for all kinds of turning.  My tool is round because it was one of the first made. They have now made them hexagon-shaped so that the tool will not roll off your sewing table!!

Step 11:
Stuff the pillow form through the opening in the back of the pillow.
 
*You can make your own pillow form by using (2) 20 1/2" x 20 1/2" muslin (or scrap) pieces.  Sew together, leaving a 4" hole on one side.  Turn the form right side out and stuff it with polyfill or batting scraps to the firmness of your liking.  Hand sew the hole closed, then place the form inside the pillow.
 
Enjoy!!

 

 Keep on Stitchin'

Meg

Download a PDF version HERE

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Summer Scrap Elimination - Scrappy Pillow

If you are like me, I have a surplus of scraps, and when Swan (Visit her scrap projects here) asked for guest designers to help with her Summer Scrap Elimination 2022, I knew I could help with a project.  Once I decided on a project, I kinda went crazy making them.  Not only do I have this pattern I am sharing with you today, but I will have other patterns I will be sharing over the next month that will help bust that stash of scraps.  

My scrappy pillow 

This is a great project to use left-over pieces from a quilt to make a great matching accent pillow for a bed or couch. This is also a great way to use up the 2 1/2" packs (Mini Charms from Moda).

What you will need:

*(32) 2 1/2" squares
*(2) 2 1/2" x 16 1/2" rectangles - border
*(2) 12 1/2" x 10 1/2" rectangles - backing
*Thread to match the backing fabric
*12" x 16" pillow form

Sewing:

Step 1:

There are two different layouts you can make with the (32) 2 1/2" squares.  Please pick the layout of your choice from the following diagrams.  

Layout #1

Layout #2

For my pillow, I choose Layout #2

Step 2:

Sew the squares together into rows, following the diagram that you choose.  Press seams following the arrows in the layout diagrams above.

Step 3:

Sew the two center rows together, matching the seams.  Press to one side.

Pillow Center

Step 4:

Next, add a 2 1/2" x 16 1/2" border strip to the top and bottom of the pillow center.  Press toward the border strips.

Pillow center with borders added

Step 5:

Now, sew the top and bottom rows to the pillow center.  Press toward border strips.  Once you have your pillow front this far, lay it to the side while you prepare the backing pieces.

Add top and bottom rows.

Press toward border strips.

Preparing Backing:

I love using the Hot Ruler from Clover.  You can purchase this Hot Ruler HERE.  You can press on this Hot Ruler, so making the hem on the backing pieces is sooo easy!  This ruler is 2 1/2" wide x 10" long.

Hot Ruler by Clover

Step 1:

Place your backing wrong side up on your ironing board.  Then, place the Hot Ruler, ruler side up, along the 12 1/2" side.

Step 2:

On one 12 ½" side of the backing, fold the raw edge of the fabric up to the 1/2" line and press.  Move the ruler to finish the whole backing piece.  Repeat for the second backing piece.

Pressing 1/2" 

Step 3:

Open the pressed 1/2" hemline.

Step 4:

Fold the raw edge to the press line and fold up, this will enclose the raw edge of the backing on one side.  Repeat for the second backing piece.

Fold raw edge to press line.

Fold up to enclose the raw edge of the backing.

I pinned my hem in place.

Step 5:

Now with matching thread, top stitch about 1/8" from the folded edge.  Repeat for the second backing piece.

Top stitch

Step 6:

Now, lay the pillow front on your table right side up, and place one backing piece wrong side up on top of the left side of the pillow front.  Make sure to match raw edges placing the hem in the middle of the pillow front.  Pin in place.
 
Next, using the second backing piece, place it on the right side of the pillow front wrong side up.  Make sure to match raw edges placing the hem in the middle of the pillow front.  Pin in place. *Note: that the backing pieces will overlap.

Backing Overlap

Step 7:

Once your backing is pinned in place, from the corner, measure in 3/4" and place a dot, then measure out 5" from the dot in both directions and mark a dot that is 1/4" from the raw edge.  Now mark a slightly curved line from dot to dot, do this in both directions. This line will not be straight (This will help when turning the pillow right side out, there will be no sharp points on the corners.)

Repeat for all 4 corners.

Step 8:

Stitch all the way around the pillow with a 1/4" seam.  When you reach the lines that are drawn on the backing, stitch on the lines, backstitching at the beginning and end to reinforce the seam at that point.

Step 9:

Now, to reduce the bulk in the corners of the pillow, follow the picture to trim the corners.  A combination of both trimming and grading the corners is needed to reduce bulk and make the corners sharp and crisp when turned right side out and pressed.  Make sure not to trim too close to the corner stitching, if you trim too close when turning, you run the risk of pushing a hole in the corners.
 
Trim all 4 corners.

Trimming Corners

Step 10:

Turn the pillow right side out, poking corners out.  I use the OESD Expert Point & Press Tool.  There are two different sizes of round ends on this tool to use for all kinds of turning.  My tool is round because it was one of the first made, they have now made them hexagon-shaped so that the tool will not roll off your sewing table!!

OESD Perfect

Step 11:

Stuff the pillow form through the opening in the back of the pillow.
 
*You can make your own pillow form by using (2) 12 1/2" x 16 1/2" muslin (or scrap) pieces.  Sew together leaving a 4" hole on one side.  Turn the form right side out and stuff with poly fill or batting scraps to the firmness of your liking.  Hand sew the hole closed, then place the form inside the pillow.

The pillow that started this obsession

Layout Option #1
Scraps from a quilt I made a giveaway! I might just have to give this pillow away as well.

Layout Option #1
Halloween version.

I have two other pillows designed, so make sure to stop back by next week for another pattern.

Enjoy!

Keep on Stitchin'

Meg

Download a PDF Copy HERE 

Like me on FACEBOOK

Follow me on  INSTAGRAM

See all my patterns on my website